展覧会「200年をたがやす」|CULTIVATING SUCCESSIVE WISDOMS

食

あの人のレシピをつなぐ

私の家に伝わる「寒麹。これは、米麹、もち米、塩、砂糖を混ぜて作った調味料で、野菜、肉、魚などを漬けて、日々活用しています。我が家の寒麹は母の手作りで、毎年、冬になると一年分を仕込んできました。

その母が、一昨年、急逝しました。これまでほとんど料理をしたことのなかった父が残されたなか、父の食事の支えとなってくれたのが、母が仕込んでいた寒麹でした。

寒麹さえあれば、料理が簡単になり、美味しくなる。そして、母がいなくとも、寒麹を使えばいつでも母の味を味わうことができる。寒麹のおかげで、父はいま、台所に立つことを楽しんでいるようにも映ります。そして、毎日のように使うものですから、母の寒麹はついに底をつき、昨年からは、母の残したメモ書きをもとに、私も寒麹を作るようになりました。

こんなふうに、味」というのは受け継いでいくことができ、そのひとつひとつに、ささやかで大切な物語がある。歴史の年表に載るようなことこそないけれど、その物語の積み重ねが、いまの私たちの生活を支えてくれているのだと思います。

食分野では、あの人から教わったレシピ」を募集し、展示します。会期中にはお持ち帰りいただけるレシピもご用意し、会場内でもご記入いただけるようにして、会期が進むにつれ、たくさんのレシピが見られるようにしていく予定です。みなさんの味と思い出を広くシェアしていくことで未来につないでいけたらと願っています。

矢吹 史子

Connecting Personal Recipes

In our family, we have a seasoning called ‘cold koji’ that has been passed down for generations. It is made by mixing malted rice, mochi rice, salt and sugar, and it is used daily to flavor vegetables, meat or fish. My mother has always made our cold koji. Each year in winter she made enough to last for the whole year.

Two years ago, my mother passed away. She was survived by my father, who had never cooked before; but with the help of the cold koji that my mother had made, my father was able to prepare meals for himself.

With the cold koji in the kitchen, cooking was easy, and the food tasty. With the cold koji, the food still tasted as if my mother had cooked it even though she was no longer alive. Thanks to the cold koji, my father seemed to enjoy standing behind the kitchen counter. But since it is used every day, the cold koji that my mother had made eventually ran out. Last year, I started preparing the cold koji myself, with my mother’s notes in front of me.

In this way, it is possible to pass on tastes and flavors, and they become something with small but important stories to tell. Their stories are not of the kind that would ever appear in historical chronologies, but nonetheless it is the accumulation of precisely such stories that forms and supports our daily lives today.

In Cuisine, we will collect recipes that people have received from a special someone in their lives, and display them as part of the exhibition. We will also make it possible for visitors to take home recipes and add their own during the exhibition period. As the exhibition proceeds, more and more recipes will be part of the display. By collecting and sharing flavors and memories in this way, we hope that we can pass them on to the future.

Fumiko Yabuki